Low water pressure? Work out where it’s dropping
No call-out fee · Usually same-day · 180+ five-star reviews
Step 1 — right now
Do this before you do anything else
This costs nothing and doesn’t need us. It’s the difference between a mop and an insurance claim.
- 1
Check whether it’s one tap or all of them
One tap means that tap or its flexible hose. Every tap in the house means the problem is upstream — the meter, the main, or a valve.
- 2
Check hot and cold separately
If only the hot side is weak, the fault is at or after the hot water unit — often a partly closed isolation valve or a scaled outlet, not the pipework.
- 3
Unscrew the aerator on the worst tap
The small mesh screen in the spout end. They fill with scale and grit, and this is genuinely the fix a surprising share of the time. Rinse it and screw it back on.
- 4
Check the tap at the water meter is fully open
A meter tap that has been left half-shut after work on the property throttles the whole house. Turn it anticlockwise as far as it goes.
- 5
On tank water, check the pump and vessel first
If you’re on acreage, pressure comes from your pump, not a main. A short-cycling pump or a waterlogged pressure vessel is the usual answer.
Step 2 — what it probably is
The usual causes, in plain English
Corroded galvanised supply pipe
Very common in homes built before about 1980. The pipe closes up from the inside, so pressure fades over years rather than dropping suddenly.
A failing pressure-limiting valve
Fitted at the meter on most modern homes and in apartment risers. They have a service life of around ten years and fail closed as often as open.
A partly closed valve, or a blocked aerator or filter
The cheap end of the list, and worth eliminating before anyone quotes you for pipework.
A concealed leak upstream
Losing pressure and losing water are the same problem when a supply line has failed underground.
Step 3 — what it costs
So you know before you ring
We eliminate the cheap causes first.
Diagnosis is the job here, and it goes in order of cost: aerators, valves and the meter tap before anything else. Where it does turn out to be pipework, the price depends on how much of the run needs replacing and how accessible it is — a partial repipe of the runs that actually matter is usually a fraction of doing the whole house, and we’ll show you why we’re recommending one over the other.
- No call-out fee
- Fixed price before we start
- Lifetime labour warranty
Step 4 — get it fixed
Ring us, or we’ll ring you
Calling gets you an answer fastest. If you’d rather not wait on the phone, leave your details and we’ll call you back.
Call 0406 711 214Lifetime labour warranty
Every job we do is backed for as long as you own the property.
Fully licensed & insured
NSW Licence NSW LICENCE PENDING. Compliance certificates on every job.
No call-out fee
We don’t charge to turn up, and we don’t charge to quote.
Fixed price up front
You approve the price before we start. It doesn’t move afterwards.
Book a plumber
We’ve filled in what’s wrong — just add your details.
What people say
5.0 from 180+ Google reviews“Excellent service, very friendly and went above and beyond to get what was needed done.”
Google reviewReviewer name not published “Great communication, Colin was professional, polite and friendly and did a magnificent job. Highly recommend for any plumbing needs.”
Google reviewReviewer name not published
Still wondering
Common questions
A sudden drop across the whole house usually means a valve — the meter tap left partly closed, or a pressure-limiting valve that has failed. A gradual drop over years is more likely corroded galvanised pipe closing up from the inside. Sudden loss on the hot side only points at the hot water unit or its isolation valve.
Low pressure itself is mostly an inconvenience, but what causes it can matter. Instantaneous gas hot water units need a minimum flow to fire reliably, so low pressure can leave you with intermittent hot water, and a pump short-cycling against a waterlogged vessel will destroy itself given enough time.
Worth asking a neighbour before you book anyone. Genuine mains issues and planned works affect several properties at once and are Sydney Water’s to fix. If it’s just your place, it’s on your side of the meter.
That’s not my problem
Pick whichever is closest.
- Burst pipe or water everywhereSpraying, flooding, or water where it shouldn’t be
- I can smell gasGet out first, then read this from outside
- No hot waterCold shower, or it runs out too fast
- Blocked drain or toiletBacking up, draining slowly, or gurgling
- No water at allNothing from any tap in the house
- Sewage or drain smellInside, or over the drains outside
- Huge water bill, no visible leakOr damp patches you can’t explain
- Water pressure has droppedOne tap, or the whole house
- Tap dripping or won’t turn offIncluding mixers that won’t seal
- Toilet keeps runningOr refilling by itself when nobody’s used it